Doesn’t matter how many into-the-sun
glamor shots I take, nothing is going to change the fact that this cylinder on
our tractor is dribbling hydraulic fluid all over the front tire at an ever increasing
rate.
I’ve managed to go 63 years without
having to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder, which, given my general mechanical
ineptitude is a good thing, but life has caught up to me and now I have no
choice. At least no fiscally responsible
choice since a new cylinder costs 7 times what a rebuild kit does. (Yep, I
checked.)
So after going on-line and reading
up on rebuilding hydraulic cylinders (I avoid the YouTube stuff because of our
limited monthly data allowance out here in the sticks.) I stuffed one pocket
full of rags, tucked a headlamp in the other, grabbed my ‘mechanics box’ (That's what Chanel Lock calls it and I figure they should know, though I've owned this set for over 30 years and it has done little to improve my mechanical aptitude. . . Maybe that's revenge for running over it with the tractor once.) and,
rather cleverly I thought, a set of Chanel locks for grabbing the ends of the
cylinder pins to pull them out, then set off down the hill to the tractor-barn.
That was about the end of things
going smoothly.
First I needed an adjustable wrench
(I played that smart by bringing two down with me) then I needed a magnetic
pickup (I’ll get to that in a moment) then it was a screwdriver to pry the pins
out far enough so I could get ahold of them with the Chanel locks, then it was
– well, you get the idea.
All and all I made the trip from
tractor-barn, past the well-house, and up to the main barn and back a good
dozen times before I was finished (Finished with this stage, not finished with
rebuilding the cylinder, not by a long shot!!)
First step was to remove the hydraulic hoses from the cylinder
I’m assuming keeping things clean is
somehow important when messing with hydraulics, but since I don’t have any
fancy caps laying around I improvised. Crude and maybe not all that effective,
but it makes me feel better anyway. . .
Next step is to remove the bolts
that hold the pins that hold the cylinder.
Here’s where I found I needed a
screwdriver to pry on the far end of the pins to slide them out far enough to
grab with the Chanel locks. One pin was easy to reach but the back-side of the
other pin is butted up against some quarter-inch steel structure that keeps the
front-end loader from crumbling to the ground, or worse, onto the operator,
under load and that one was a bit more difficult to finagle out.
And remember that comment about
keeping things clean?? At this point that went all to hell when I dropped one
of the pins on the sandy floor of the tractor-barn. (easy to find but very
gritty because of all the grease on it.) Then I promptly turned around and dropped one
of the nuts for the bolt that retains the pin!
That sand floor is not anywhere near
a hard-packed surface, in fact it’s more like a fine beach just above the
high-tide mark, and that nut buried itself in the sand faster than a flounder in mud, so the wages for that little screw-up was to tramp all the way
up to the main barn and back to fetch my magnetic dumb-ass saver.
Hopefully I’m done dropping things,
but – well – probably not. . .
Eventually I got the cylinder
removed, went back up to the main barn to fetch a bucket to carry all the crap
I had brought down on my various trips, and finally got the cylinder onto the
workbench up in the main barn.
It was right about now that I
noticed the two pins that hold the cylinder in place are different lengths and
I didn’t make note of which was which. Oh well, I’ll figure that out when I get
there, probably by discovering that the pin I just finished installing and bolting
in place actually goes on the other end. . .
Here’s where I gloved up, grabbed
some mineral oil, rags and pipe cleaners, and cleaned up the outside of the
cylinder, the pins and the threads of the hose nipples and pin-retaining nuts
and bolts.
It’s also where I discovered that I
had no fixed and only one adjustable wrench in all my shop that would fit the gland, and it
was totally the wrong kind of wrench for this job!
But what the hell! Work with what
you have. That’s my impatient and penny-pinching philosophy!
So back down to the tractor-barn
with the cleaned-up cylinder and my oh-so-wrong wrench to temporarily mount the
cylinder end back in the tractor, (Fair warning!! Those mechanics out there
that are sensitive and easily upset should skip the next photo!!!!)
so I could slap my big-honking
pipe-wrench on the flats of the gland and twist it out of the cylinder far
enough to turn by hand. (Hey, I gave you fair warning!)
Then it was cart everything back up to the main barn where I pulled the gland the rest of the way out and let the cylinder drain for
a while. (If you noticed several photos back, my waste-oil pan is busy hanging
out under the steering cylinder of the tractor which has a slow drip (One every
10 minutes or so) at one of the hose connections, hence the tiny little
catch-pan here.)
With the cylinder (mostly) drained I
could finally pull the shaft and piston out of it.
The thrill of victory was short
lived once I saw all that gunk piled up there on the piston. I’m pretty sure
that’s not right!!
But there’s no turning back now!
So I cleaned up the shaft/piston assembly
and made the hike back down to the tractor-barn so I could remove the piston
retention nut. Although I don’t have a 15/16’s socket, or open-end wrench for
that matter, in my tool arsenal, at least this time I had a proper adjustable
wrench that would fit.
I was a little leery of this step
after reading about thread-lock, torches and impact wrenches to get this nut
loose, but in actuality the nut only took about ¾ effort to break loose.
Whew!!
Back up at the main barn I finished
removing the nut and pulled the piston off the shaft.
Clearly the O-ring has seen better
days.
With the piston out of the way I was
now able to slide the gland off the shaft.
And it immediately became clear why
the dang thing was leaking.
You can see here that the second
seal is crumbling away, big time,
leaving all sorts of debris hanging
around.
I’m trying hard not to think about
the fact that I’ve got three more identical cylinders on this tractor, all the
same age, all with the same work and load history. Right now I’m just trying to
get through this first cylinder with all of us in one piece and functioning!
Anyway – now that I have been able
to verify the dimensions of my cylinder to confirm I was ordering the proper
rebuild kit, it’s on its way and the saga will continue once the USPS does its
thing.
OOOH that looks like soooo much fun.
ReplyDeleteYep, soooo much fun it's criminal of me to keep it all to myself.
DeleteI can tell that you are just like me when it comes to anything mechanical. Show me a computer that doesn't work and I can usually get it going but just changing the oil can be a mind blowing event. Your post today reminded me of the time I replaced my two oil lines on the Class C I had purchased not 50 miles prior.
ReplyDeleteSince you showed with photos and comments how "easy" this was, I bet you bought THREE rebuilding kits so you can do them all at once. Or did you bet that those other two will work longer than you live? If it were I, I would procrastinate and do them when I needed to.
Penny pinching????? Two summers ago I need a new wheel for my mower, by buy all 4 to change at once when it's cheaper to buy just one cheap wheel.
I'll remember this post when I need to repair a hydraulic cylinder ... a great write up.
Oh no, I'm operating under the assumption that if I fix this one cylinder the rest will be fine forever, so I only ordered the one rebuild kit.
Delete