Nope, this isn't a weekday but rather a Sunday morning during prime camping season a week before Labor Day |
Ahhh. Another dawn here at Blackwell Horse Camp, just waiting on the sun to appear over those trees.
It’s going to be another gorgeous
day (Did I mention that I have enough bars here to pull up the WeatherBug
app??) and there’s plenty of interesting looking trails nearby, in fact I’ve
kind of got my eye on that Sycamore Trail just down the road.
But I just can’t do it.
I can’t sit here another day. (Notice that I already packed the tent the night before.)
Hurricane Harvey has been holding me
hostage for three days now and isn’t done with me yet, but I need to do something to give myself the illusion of
moving closer to home.
As far as trails go, Buzzard Roost doesn’t
look like much on paper, though at 0.8 miles, the trail map shows it as being a full 3
tenths longer than shown here on the Hoosier National Forest Trails Guide, (All
published by the same entity, but since it’s the USDA the fact that they can’t quite
sync things up isn’t surprising.) but the story behind the name of this site
right on the Ohio River drew me in anyway.
(My actual out and back GPS track was 1.24 miles so it seems neither number is correct. . .)
In the late 1800’s the Hatfield
family (That’s Job Hatfield and I don’t know if they are related.) operated a smokehouse
in Magnet, a couple miles further south along the river. They did all their own
butchering and as you can imagine this produced scraps; well, scraps to them, gourmet
to buzzards.
When full the buzzards would roost
on the bluffs above a bend in the river about halfway between Magnet and the
larger town of Alton. (I guess not many people wanted to live too close to a
smokehouse operation so Alton got the people!)
To get from where I was to where I
wanted to go, I took SR 37 south out of Bedford. In the pre-interstate days
Indiana 37 used to be the highway,
running from the southwest corner to the northeast corner of the state, with
110 miles of that being 4 lane-divided. Now the whole stretch from just south
of Indianapolis to just north of Fort Wayne doesn’t exist anymore, buried beneath
urban sprawl and I69. And it won’t be long before the segment from Martinsville down
to Bloomington will also disappear under a new chunk of I69 that is already
under construction.
Today my drive from Bedford down to
Paoli is interesting, but not terribly spectacular or noteworthy. From
Paoli south that changes though. Somewhere in the process of working its way through the streets of Paoli the flatish farmland is left behind and, while
some farms do still exist, SR 37 is now snaking its way through the ridges
and hollows of the Tell City Ranger District of Hoosier National Forest.
And snaking is the operative word
here!
If the posted speed limit along here
is 55 that means that there are going to be a whole mess of 45 MPH turns and
curves to be negotiated, if the speed limit is 45 then the turns and curves are
down to 35. In either case, driving something as heavy and tall as The Van there’s
just not enough time and distance between curves to get it up to the speed limit, (Especially with my light foot more suited to a grandmother than a ball-carrying member of the male subset. . .) though for sports car enthusiasts this must be a dream drive!
Twisting and
turning, climbing and dipping, through the woods of southern Indiana with the windows, and maybe even the top down, with occasional roadside beverage stops along the way to keep everything lubed and cooled. Almost makes we wish I had one of those little Italian jobs to drive, but my luck, it would turn out to be a 30 year old, 30 MPH Vespa scooter. . .
At English (given the Amish population
in the area perhaps this town was named for its preponderance of non-Amish
inhabitants?) I leave 37 and switch over to SR 237, which, if anything, was
even more twisty and turny and sports-car worthy (As long as you can get around that slow-ass van up there in front of you!!)
Eventually I come to my turn onto
Onida Rd., which isn't all that well marked so it was a good thing I was keeping
track of the mileage from that weird three-way intersection in Sulphur where SR
66 confuses the crap out of things by nearly doubling back on itself to head
east one way and south the other. . .
When you’re in the woods you take every opportunity you can to suck up that solar!! |
From what I had read about the popularity
of Buzzard Roost as a picnic and family gathering spot nowadays I envisioned a fairly
developed recreation area with picnic shelters, brick bathroom building and paved walkways.
Instead I find an overgrown wide spot in the
single-lane access road that doubles for trailhead parking. But first, not recognizing it for what it is, I bypass that, thinking it must be an overflow area, and drive on into
a tiny little 5 site campground with no water and a single construction style, plastic portapotty
perched at a cockeyed angle beside the loop at the end of the road.
Being a Sunday I'm also prepared to
deal with crowds, but it's just me and the couple occupying the only camp in the
campground.
As for the trail itself? Well it clearly hasn’t seen a whole lot of
traffic this season, but I don’t let that stop me.
Not too far in from the trailhead is
an observation deck perched up there on the bluff with a couple bench seats nearby (Behind me) for those that find the couple-hundred foot stroll from the parking area taxing. (OK. Yes. I used the benches, but only on my way back up from the river!)
The view is across the river to Willett's Bottom in Kentucky and I hang around a while to see if there is anything
going on. (There isn’t, not even any traffic on the river.)
But the trail continues on, squeaking
through between the campsites (See the tent of the only camp there to the
right?) and the bad part of the bluff. You know, where gravity switches from keeping
your feet planted on the ground to making you temporarily fly as you head
towards the river below.
Past the campground, trees to the
left of the trail try to give the illusion of security, but I still know the edge of the
bluff is right there, just a couple steps away.
And there are a few points where the
trail sort of tips over the edge, such as here where I’m pointing the camera
pretty much straight down.
But as long as you can handle two stairs at a time, with one
or two butt-slides or all-fours scrambles thrown in for good measure,
you’ll be able to make it all the way down the bluff to
this rather grown-in bench on the banks of the river,
or, if you bypass that then a few steps later you can
stand at the water’s edge and look up-river where Alton is hiding around the bend,
or downriver towards Magnet.
In fact, with enough zoom you can see some of the rental cabins, a canoe livery and river-side parks that make up Magnet
today.
The main road, a county road called
Dexter Magnet, crosses there between the buildings and the river and
I’ll be going through there later when I leave here.
Assuming I can make it back up the
bluff to The Van. . .
I've never known Hwy 37 to head SW part of Indiana but I do know those twisting and winding road you speak of near Tell City and English. Southern Indiana is full of sports car roads, my Z4 loves them as much as my '93 LE Miata did. There have been a few times where I have had my right foot buried the the firewall of the car trying to get slowed in time for those 15mph turns. Pretty amazing that a campground like that is vacant on a weekend before Labor Day.
ReplyDeleteI don't know if SR-37 went west from Tell City back in the day or not, but if it didn't, clearly the official history of the highway doesn't line up very well with geography (Maybe back in those days nothing west of Tell City counted??)
DeleteMy brother, ex race-car driver, used to have a bumper sticker that said "If you're not afraid you're not going fast enough!"
Not my style! I think I'll stay back here and toddle along with the grandmothers if you don't mind!
A NF ranger told me that in your part of the county the weekend before a holiday weekend, whatever it might be, always sees light usage of the campgrounds and recreation areas. Bad for the working-stiff that gets caught up in the holiday frenzy, good for us retired rats free to go play when we want.